William Jamieson, Master Cooper

Cooperage – An Insider’s View
Will Jamieson, Master Cooper – Demptos, USA
(continued from the article in Uncorked – A Toast to Barrels)

World renowned Demptos was the first cooperage to open its doors in Napa.  Managing Partner and Master Cooper Will Jamieson began working at Demptos in 1982.  As an apprentice cooper at age 16 in the Highlands of Scotland, he had learned how to make barrels for whiskey.  Demptos sent him to Bordeaux to master cooperage for winemaking.  Will graciously shared some insights with us into the art of cooperage.

Q. Do different forests yield different flavors?
A. We only offer our French oak barrels based on grain, not a specific forest. We have found that when we toast our barrels based on grain (Tight-Medium-Wide) we can offer a more consistent result year after year.

Q. What does it take to be a good Cooper?
A. A Cooper must have passion for the trade and really enjoy working with wood and creating something by hand. A good Cooper must maintain focus during the toasting process; the smallest detail can make the biggest difference.

Q. What is the most difficult thing about making a barrel?
A. All of the steps in the cooperage process are important. The wood selection, proper seasoning of the oak, and the toasting of the wood/barrel. The most critical element in building premium wine barrels is to create consistent aromas and flavors for the barrels we ship to our customers.

Q. Is the wood aged before the barrel is made? How do you know how long to age the wood?
A. Yes, the oak is aged prior to our production.
From years of historical data, we have found that white oak needs a minimum of two years of seasoning, however, that is just a minimum. Our empirical data suggests that the seasoning process is a “moving-target” and often times we are forced to extend the seasoning due to variable weather conditions and how the oak has reacted to those patterns. One thing is for sure, we cannot bring any oak to market (American or French) with less than two years of seasoning.

Q. Do you have any stories about Demptos cooperage making a huge difference for a winemaker?
A. Our barrels have been used for many wines all over the world. Some of these wines have been recognized and have received great awards due in part to the use of our barrels. Our customers have enough variability from the vineyard, production cycle, and the aging process. What we offer is a sense of stability in providing consistent barrels year after year.

Q. What is the secret to toasting a barrel?
A. The design of the fire pots is very important. Consistency in the inside/outside temperatures of the barrel is critical at the toast stage. Patience and an eye for detail are very important as the toasting process cannot be rushed. Not every barrel will react the same way; toasting a barrel is a very time consuming and labor intensive stage. Machines cannot replace what a master cooper sees and smells during this stage of production.